Fuente: Textiles (MDPI) Textiles, Vol. 5, Pages 54: Mini-Jacquard Weft-Knit in Peruvian Pima Cotton as a Print-Free Alternative: CAD Simulation, Prototyping, and Fabric Pattern Characterization
Textiles doi: 10.3390/textiles5040054
Authors:
Praxedes Jeanpierre Merino-Ramirez
Rebeca Salvador-Reyes

This study develops and validates a weft knitted Mini-Jacquard in Peruvian Pima cotton as a print-free coloration strategy by integrating CAD-based pattern simulation with prototype manufacturing. A three-color design (red, blue, white) was programmed on a flat knitting machine using a 10 × 14 rapport. Color-wise yarn consumption was computed directly from the digital pattern, and the physical sample was characterized through combustion testing and optical micrographs. The prototype exhibited a yarn count of ~20/1 Ne, S-twist (~11.18 TPI), and 100% cellulosic composition. The blue yarn showed the highest consumption (≈73.81%), followed by white (≈19.65%) and red (≈6.55%), consistent with the digital rapport’s color distribution. The CAD stage ensured pattern fidelity and supported raw-material planning; the knitted sample showed a soft hand, dimensional stability, and sharp motif definition upon visual assessment. A sustainability and comparative analysis with chemical printing was conducted, revealing that the Mini-Jacquard achieved the highest design accuracy and tactile comfort, outperforming screen printing and heat transfer in geometric fidelity, chromatic homogeneity, and texture. The Mini-Jacquard optimized operational times (320 min/m2) compared to transfer printing (332 min/m2) and screen printing (740 min/m2), reducing process stages and complexity. Although Jacquard production involves higher energy costs ($34.8) and material expenses ($11.6), it provides greater structural value and durability, positioning it for high-end applications. Moreover, the Mini-Jacquard could reduce water consumption by approximately 90% and thermal energy use by 70%, eliminating chemical residues and extending fabric lifespan, thus offering high sustainability and circular potential. A transparent scenario-based analysis indicates substantial reductions in water and thermal-energy use when omitting printing/fixation/washing stages, along with the elimination of printing-stage effluents. Overall, design-integrated coloration via Mini-Jacquard is technically feasible and potentially eco-efficient for Pima-cotton value chains, with applications in apparel, accessories, and functional textiles.