Fecha de publicación: 28/10/2024 Fuente: Molecules - Revista científica (MDPI) Molecules, Vol. 29, Pages 5088: Metabolites Obtained from Boraginaceae Plants as Potential Cosmetic Ingredients—A Review
Molecules doi: 10.3390/molecules29215088
Authors:
Ewelina Chrzanowska
Bożena Denisow
Halina Ekiert
Łukasz Pietrzyk

One of the challenges of the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries is to deliver biochemical compounds that can be advantageous for the skin. Research on Boraginaceae taxa has confirmed their use in traditional medicine and proved the potential biological importance of various molecules in cosmetology. The main classes of valuable compounds associated with Boraginaceae taxa are fatty acids, including γ-linolenic acid, essential oils, phenolic acids (e.g., rosmarinic acid), flavonoids, anthocyanins, tannins, and saponins. Highly specific are naphthoquinone pigments (including shikonin) and allantoin. Another distinguishing feature is the accumulation of silica (silicon dioxide) in trichomes. Some taxa produce mucilages. However, pyrrolizidine alkaloids (PAs) with toxic properties are also found (mainly in Symphytum spp.); therefore, their applications should be avoided. Extracts or individual compounds of Boraginaceae plants are characterized by antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, anti-irritant, antiaging, and photoprotective activities. Boraginaceae products are widespread in the cosmetic industry as ingredients of creams, balms, lotions, gels, shampoos, lipsticks, perfumes, and deodorants. The most valuable for the cosmetic industry are raw materials obtained from the genera Alcanna Anchusa, Arnebia, Borago, Buglossoides, Cerinthe, Cordia, Echium, Ehretia, Eriodictyon, Glendora, Lappula, Lithospermum, Lycopsis, Macrotomia, Maharanga, Mertensia, Messerschmidia, Myosotis, Omphalodes, Onosma, Pulmonaria, Rindera, Symphytum, Trachystemon, and Trigonotis. Further research should focus on the search for active substances in other plants of the family.